Black & Decker 220UH Manuel d'utilisateur Page 3

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  • MARQUE LIVRES
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12V Basic (Resettable Fuse) Kit Instructions
Page 3 of 4
10. If you use the M4 bolt output terminal option I would strongly suggest you solder the ring terminals to
the output cables, do not just crimp. Every poor connection is losing energy. I would advise using
leads of at least 10 or 12AWG for the output. These may seem OTT but they do seem to make a
difference.
There is no point after this just using crocodile clips to connect to the battery. Use proper battery
terminal connectors and a soldered ring terminal and do the connections up properly. To give you an
idea of what you lose here on a ‘high power’ desulphator fitted with a peak detector I was losing 20V
through crocodile clips against a proper battery terminal clamp.
11. On completion check and double check that the right components are in the right place, and that there
are no solder bridges.
12. Connect the negative lead from the desulphator to the battery negative terminal first. Then briefly
touch the positive lead to the positive terminal i.e. 1-2 seconds and note:-
a. low level sparks as the lead contacts the battery terminal
b. the LED should illuminate
c. you should hear a distinct circa 1kHz tone from the PCB
If you get all three then connect the desulphator for progressively longer periods and monitor the coils/
MOSFET and diode for excessive heat. Once you have got to a minute it is fairly safe to assume that all is
well.
If you get only some or none of the above then clearly something is wrong. Re-check the components are in
the right place and adequately soldered and that there are no bridges or dry joints.
This device consumes in the region of 90-100mA so will obviously drain the battery if it is not charged.
I would suggest that you connect both the device and a trickle charger to the battery undergoing recovery
(having first checked that the electrolyte level is OK) and leave the desulphator to do its thing.
The voltage to which the battery will charge should increase over a period of 10-14 days, a really large battery
may take longer. If you do not see this improvement then it is likely that the cause of the battery’s poor
performance is other than sulphation or that it is already too bad and the sulphation has bridged plates
internally.
I can be contacted at enquiri[email protected] or on 0146 483 1490. With regard to the latter option be
aware I work offshore for half my life and that my wife may not be able to offer that much assistance and also
that calls should be made at a civilised hour i.e. before 2100.
SIMPLE DESULPHATOR INSTRUCTIONS
DO NOT CONNECT THE DESULPHATOR TO THE BATTERY CHARGER CONNECT IT TO THE
BATTERY & THEN CONNECT THE CHARGER. MAKE SURE THE BATTERY CHARGER IS
UNPLUGGED FROM THE MAINS SUPPLY BEFORE CONNECTING/ DISCONNECTING.
TO PREVENT DAMAGE BY SHORTING OUT OF THE PCB PLEASE ENSURE IT IS USED IN SOME
FORM OF INSULATING CONTAINER (kits & unboxed desulphators only).
CONNECT YOUR NEGATIVE CABLE TO THE BOLTED TERMINAL MARKED VE AND THE POSITIVE
CABLE TO THE TOP OF THE INSULATED SPACER AT THE POSITION MARKED +VE. DO NOT
DISCONNECT OR CHANGE THE DIODE OR FUSE CONNECTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO WEBSITE FOR
PICTURES IF BUILDING A KIT FOR CORRECT CONNECTIONS (kits & unboxed desulphators only).
1. Is it working? If the red LED is lit and you can hear a distinct ‘buzzing’ noise then yes it is.
2. Only slightly less important is ensuring that any battery charging activities are carried out in a
reasonably well ventilated environment. This is particularly relevant here as you will both hear and see
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